This past weekend, Gavin and I went on a trip down to the
Republic of Ireland. It was by far one of the best trips I’ve taken this
semester thanks to the people we met and the places we saw.
We started things out right on Thursday (Nov. 21) by taking
a double decked bus to Dublin and sitting in the front on the top! We had a
fabulous view for the two hour drive.
When we got to Dublin, we booked a room with Isaac’s Hostel,
which was a really cool old building that used to be a wine cellar. They have
the basement all set up with each little cellar as separate hang out spots; one
is a library, then a computer room, a sauna, a pool table, and a
tv/movie/playstation room. The main thing we did that first night however was
the Guinness Factory. We hopped on Dublin’s tram system (which is an above
ground subway, basically) and it was very easy and clean to use. Actually, all
of the public transportation here has been awesome. But we almost missed the
last entrance time to the museum at 5 o’clock as we speed walked to find the
big Willy Wonka looking gate to the factory.
Obviously, we made it in time. The ticket got us into the storehouse,
which was shaped like a giant pint of Guinness that would have held 14.3
million pints, but they brew more than that in 5 days! We walked quickly
through the brewing process information. It was interesting, but the same basic
stuff like here is the clean water we use, then the barley, then the hops, then
the barrels. We also went through the tasting room where they tell you exactly
what you taste and smell when you enjoy a pint of Guinness. It was a bit
theatrical, but I do feel like I know a wee bit more about how to enjoy a good “pint
of the black stuff.” The more interesting facts were about the history of
Arthur Guinness himself and the factory.
In 1759, Arthur
Guinness signed a 9000 year lease
for the same land the factory is on today, for an annual rent fee of £45. A
little ambitious you might say, but Guinness is guaranteed to be around until
the year 10759. Arthur and his wife Olivia had 21 children, but only 10 of
them survived.
Guinness was one of the first in the world to provide their
employees with a pension and give paid vacations. Records from 1860 show
pensions being provided, and on average, salaries were 10-20% above the rest of
Dublin jobs. If a man died and left a family, Guinness would pay for the
burial, provide money for the family and give the wife a decent job. Free
medical care was also provided for employees starting in 1870. Free dinner was
served for young boys of Guinness families to encourage them to attend school.
Guinness would also loan money at low interest rates for employees to buy
houses, and most importantly, each male employee would receive a beer allowance
of two pints of Guinness daily.
For the full story of facts on employees: http://www.guinness-storehouse.com/en/docs/Employee_Welfare_At_Guinness.pdf
I can’t find the actual quote from Arthur on his employees,
but even recent chairmen of the company have been quoted saying things like ‘[Guinness]
always felt that it was not only the duty, but to the advantage, of the company
and its shareholders, that the company should bear its part in serving this civilization
and this way of life in which we all believe.’
Truer words have never been spoken, and Gavin and I were
both thoroughly impressed by their humane corporation philosophies.
On Friday our actual planned trip began. We booked a tour
with Paddywagon Irish touring company meant for backpackers like ourselves. We
were supposed to meet and leave at 8 a.m., but our bus had a flat tire so we
waited an hour for another bus to be driven into town. Altogether, there were 6
of us on the three day tour through Galway, Killarney and Blarney, and I would
say all 6 of us are pretty good friends now! There were 4 Americans: Gavin and
me, Jessica from Washington D.C. studying in London, and Meagan from California
working for the Scottish parliament. The other two were from Australia, close
to Melbourne, named Scott and Ben, and both had been traveling around Europe
independently. Because of them, I have deemed my favorite accent to be the
Australian one, FYI.
We also accumulated many inside jokes and random facts along
the way, which I will add in occasionally.
#1: Marc, our guide, told us not to wear seatbelts on the
back roads of Ireland. It would be more fun that way.
#2: Marc told us they let the sheep go paintballing on the
weekends, and that’s why they come back with paint splotches on them to work
during the week.
#3: They have mussel farms in Ireland.
We only spent about 40 minutes there before getting back on the
bus and driving to Kylemore Abbey. The abbey was originally built in 1867 for a
single family. Mitchell Henry built it, along with an extensive Victorian style
garden for his wife (which ONLY she was allowed in), and a church. It was
eventually turned into a Benedictine monastery and later boarding school for
girls until 2010, and now it is being restored back to its original home state
and run by the nuns. Talk about a BEAUTIFUL place. The pictures just don’t do
it justice, but we were also very lucky to have sunshine throughout our entire
trip! That NEVER happens in Ireland.
#4: I burned by mouth probably worse than I ever have before
gulping down potato and dill soup from the abbey.
From the abbey, we made our way through some never ending,
movie like scenery, with the sun shining over the mountains. We also stopped
along the side of the road to look at a tree which had all of these things tied
to the branches. Apparently, it’s the local car park for teenagers looking to
get in the backseat with someone, and afterwards they tie something in the tree.
When the tree is full they use the fence, and when the fence is full some
unlucky soul takes them all down and they start over.
Our main stop for the day/night was Galway. They had a
quaint Christmas market where we enjoyed the music and Christmas punch. We also
walked down their main shop street with pubs and stores and enjoyed a coffee
with Bailey’s Irish Cream. Dinner was fish and chips in the Skeff Bar right off
of the main Eyre Square. The pub crawl for the night started there as well, but
don’t worry, we didn’t get crazy. It was basically just a walk around town
showing off Galway’s variety of pubs.
#5: I lost one of my favorite earrings in Galway. Gavin also
wound up losing his scarf on the trip. The Aussie Ben lost his towel, and I
think at least one other person lost something to the black hole of Ireland.
The next morning, we headed out to the cliffs of Moher with
a few stops along the way. First we came to Dunguaire Castle. Apparently it is
open part of the year, but we couldn’t go inside. It was still cool from the outside,
though.
#6: If you walk counter-clockwise around the castle, they
say you get your virginity back.
#7: Doctors used to/maybe still tell pregnant women to drink
Guinness due to its high iron concentration.
#8: ABC stands for Another Bloody
Castle/Cottage/Creek/Church. We saw so many of these places, this is how Marc
said people start referring to them.
#9: Marc loved his one liners, and would occasionally tell
us to get back on the bus to “make like a shepherd and get the flock out of
here,” or “make like a hockey player and get the puck out.” It made life a
little more interesting.
#10: The small stone walls and abandoned houses that litter
Ireland are called Famine walls or Famine houses. The Irish would go to work
for 12 hours a day building property barriers with these stones, no mortar, and
receive a penny a day or a small amount of food during the potato famine in
1845.
#11: Across the street from a famine house, we stopped at a
fresh water well/spring that was filtered by the mountain it came down. The
water was very cold and nice.
The next stop was a frightening photo op at the baby cliffs
of Moher. No railings, just a 100 foot sheer drop down to the rocky water
below. (Mother Teresa, if you are reading this it was actually just 10 feet).
We grabbed lunch at Fitzpatrick’s Pub in the middle of
nowhere. Apparently their seafood chowder is famous and has its own website. I
must say it was pretty good.
Then the Cliffs of Moher! Harry Potter’s scene with the
horcrux in the cave was filmed there, along with the Princess Bride. And I said
we had a beautiful day before, but we also had the COOLEST rainbow I have ever
seen in real life, maybe even in pictures. It came all the way from the distant
horizon, straight down to the water below us and made more than a 180˚ curve.
Gavin dared to sit on the edge but I was content to crawl.
After the cliffs, we headed out to Killarney. We stopped at
a quaint pub with Christmas lights done really well. I have this nostalgic
memory of it being the coziest place, but that might have just been because I
was asleep on the bus and wanted to keep dreaming.
Also on the way to Kilarney, Aussie Ben looked out the
window as twilight was upon us and said very animatedly, “WHAT IS THAT?!” We all
turned to look out the right window and I would have sworn that a daemon was in
the nearby field. I have never in my life seen something hover above the ground
that way. It was two huge black blobs, floating above the grass in
characteristic fog, moving very fluidly and constantly changing shape. I mean
this ghost was like the size of a tractor and truly looked like a dementor, as
Meagan said.
#12: Flocks of birds can sometimes look like dementors.
Once we made it alive to Killarney, we found some Chinese
dinner and kicked it at the hostel for a break before we went back out to meet
Marc at the Grand Hotel. It was more like a pub with a club attached to the
back and rooms upstairs, but we certainly did have a grand time that night!
There was live Irish music in the front room and a live, but not as good,
American cover band in the back.
#13: When listening to native Irish language speakers, you
find out how they pronounce ‘th’ differently. Tree means three and third turns
into turd. We laughed about this for a good while. Urinal is also pronounced ur-anal.
That was the one that made our abs sore the next day!
#14: Kiwi jokes were also part of Marc’s one liner repertoire.
(Apparently they like to shag their sheep as well as shear them, in case you
didn’t know like me). How do kiwis find sheep in tall grass? With a great big
smile on their face. We also wanted to get out and pet the alpacas and horses,
so Marc commented that it’s a good thing we didn’t have any kiwis because they
would want to pet the sheep…
The other cool thing about the Blarney castle was the gardens. They didn’t have ordinary gardens, they had poison gardens! Everything in this garden had some kind of hallucinogenic or deadly trait to it. This included marijuana, ricin, wolfsbane, hemlock, poison ivy, and wormwood. The most interesting one to me, however, was the box bush, which I’m pretty sure we all have in our yards!!!
This plant was said to keep witches away from your house
because witches know the number of every twig and leaf of every plant. When
they get to a box bush, however, they lose their place when they count the
leaves and therefore get stuck looking at the bush before they can enter your
house. It is also poisonous to eat.
#15: This was our other inside joke, because we frequently
say witches be flockin to ____ (fill in the blank, ex. The beach, meaning girls
love the beach), and in this case we could say Witches be flockin to the box
bush. We thought it was funny =D.
#16: I also got to hear an Australian use the phrase “she
looked a bit dodgy” which made my life. Thank you, Ben.
#17: Being hip, meaning cool, comes from opium dens where “being
on the hip” meant you were lying on your side smoking, and this was considered
cool. I learned that in the poison garden.
#18: Scott and Ben made Jessica and Meagan really excited by
telling them they can ride kangaroos. They seem so exotic to us, but for them
they are a nuisance like deer. You can’t really ride a kangaroo, but the girls
looked up kangaroo saddle anyway…
#19: We also looked up where baby corn comes from, and it is
as cute as we thought it would be! Just think of an adorable little ear of corn
that you have to shuck. We did this as we ate our Chinese in Killarney.
After we all kissed the stone to get the gift of gab, we
made our way from county Cork back to Dublin. We stayed in Jacob’s hostel this
time, which was run by the same people with Isaac’s and it was just as nice.
But yet another small world story: two other Americans came into our hostel
room and we started talking to them. We found out they were studying together
in England for the semester, but they go to the University of Colorado Boulder.
The girl, Rachel, was from Chicago originally, and when we said we were
studying in Coleraine, Northern Ireland she said she knew someone else from
Chicago living there.
“Oh really? Who do you know?”
“Kate Pfau.”
“WHAT?”
It was one of those moments where you’re not sure you heard
them correctly because what are the odds this girl we happened to be assigned a
room with in Dublin would know our other close friend we have lived with all
semester?? But anyway, after we excitedly talked about Kate for a while (all
good things, of course) we had a fantastic night on the town with Rachel and
David and looked at Christmas lights in the city.
We ended our trip by doing some Christmas shopping in the
Belfast Christmas Market and eating Kangaroo burgers in honor of our new Aussie
friends. They were quite good!
#20: Northern Irish people are outrageously friendly and
helpful. An older man saw us looking at a map in the Belfast train station and
offered to walk us all the way through the city to our destination! The world
never ceases to amaze me with its plethora of angels.